Is it an advantage to be a high climber?

We're often asked if it's best to be tall, short or somewhere in between.
The answer is, it depends :)
Often, when you're new to climbing, you get the impression that it's best to be tall. Except for the very tall beginners who often feel too tall.
On some walls, such as slab and face, it can sometimes be an advantage to be tall, as in some situations you can maximize your height by stretching.
We can see from the large number of professional climbers that the trend is that it is best to be below average for both genders. This may be because if you're short, you often weigh less, making it easier to carry your own body weight. It's also possible that a lifetime of training at a low body weight means that you have fewer injuries and can keep your training steam up for longer periods.

When is it good to be low?
1. Some grip types invite more positioning than others. For example. slopers are easier to hold the further below them you can position yourself. This also applies to sloped crimps.
2. Some movements are very compressed, for example due to high footsteps. It can sometimes be difficult to pack a big body into that "box".
3. Endurance climbing should be easier when you are short, given that you also weigh less. This means you have to fight less against gravity and should be able to do this for longer.
4. In overhang climbing there is a slight advantage in being short, as you have a shorter core to keep taut (the barbell principle). If you tighten your core when climbing overhanging, it's easier to keep your feet on the wall without swinging off.
5. If you lose your feet on an overhanging climbing wall, you don't have to fight a huge swing if you are low versus if you are mega tall.
5. Small climbing holds, such as crimps. We often find that shorter climbers are better at holding very small crimps, as they often have smaller fingers and weigh less.

When is it better to be high?
1. If there is Long between the holds. In Boulders, we try to screw so that all heights can participate and reach all holds. But sometimes you have to stretch as a short climber where a tall climber doesn't have to stretch. It can be difficult to utilize your strength in a stretched position.
2. In the easier difficulty levels, it can be an advantage to be longer, as there is often better footholds and generally more climbing holds on the route. This means that you can sometimes stay on some lower footholds to reach the next climbing hold with your hands. A smaller climber will have to stand on higher footholds and spend more time on the climbing wall.
3. Some dynamic jumps (dynos) require a good footing. If you are taller, you typically don't need to jump as Long Although all jumps in Boulders should fit Long most people, there is a good reason to practice pistol squat and a good footing when you are short!

In Boulders set we try to use the routes as much as possible, so it doesn't matter if you are tall or short. And even though we keep that focus, sometimes it will be an advantage to be either tall or short.